Нанотехнологии в косметике: рост рынка и новые системы доставки активных веществ

Nanotechnology is at the core of this innovation, fueled by growing consumer demand for high-performance products that deliver fast, visible results. In 2024, the global nanotechnology-in-cosmetics market was valued at US$8.36 billion and is projected to reach US$9.73 billion in 2025, representing a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 16.4%. [1] Nanovectors At the nanoscale, certain materials can exhibit altered physicochemical properties and becoming more reactive. Harnessing these materials has opened new possibilities for delivering active ingredients into cells while introducing advanced functionalities such as controlled release, targeted delivery and protection of sensitive molecules. Among the latest advances, controlled-release nanosystems such as niosomes — biodegradable, stable and cost-effective vesicular nanocarriers — are emerging as a promising alternative to liposomes [2]. They can encapsulate and deliver a wide range of active ingredients, including antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial and antibacterial compounds, while helping preserve their stability, integrity and efficacy throughout the formulation. Research avenues According to Prof. Sylvie Begu of the Department of Chemistry and Molecular Materials at the Charles Gerhardt Institute (ICGM) in Montpellier, France, improving the bioavailability of active ingredients has become a key challenge in ensuring both the efficacy and safety of cosmetic and dermocosmetic formulations. "Our research has shown that delivery systems such as liposomes, lipid nanocapsules, micelles and innovative emulsions can enhance the stability of active ingredients — which are often fragile and poorly soluble — while improving their interaction with the skin’s surface layers. Plant-derived extracellular vesicles also represent a promising approach for delivering active ingredients in more environmentally friendly formulations. Our work focuses on developing and characterizing encapsulation systems, including lipid nanocarriers (liposomes, lipid nanocapsules and others), as well as Pickering and thermo- or pH-responsive emulsions, to optimize ingredient stability and biological activity," the researcher explains. "The most frequent requests from our partners concern the delivery of sensitive active ingredients, improving their stability within formulations, reducing the use of controversial ingredients, and developing innovative encapsulation systems. Technologies that can scientifically demonstrate product benefits for the skin are of great interest to the dermocosmetics sector," she adds. In recent years, the ICGM has focused its research on plant-derived extracellular vesicles — a rapidly emerging area of interest in dermocosmetics — alongside the valorization of natural resources and eco-design strategies. Considering the environmental aspect A key factor in the development of these innovative technologies is reducing the products’ ecological impact. Ongoing research at the École Nationale des Mines d’Albi-Carmaux, France, through Adeline Leluc’s PhD project, is exploring the simultaneous extraction and encapsulation of bioactive compounds from fruit and vegetable waste using supercritical CO₂. This solvent-free green process is both cost-effective and particularly well suited to preserving sensitive bioactive molecules. The aim is to scale up this "2-in-1" technology for industrial applications and fully assess its potential. In a similar vein, the thesis by Rim Ben Malek, defended in October 2025 at the University of Pau (France) and the University of Jendouba (Tunisia), investigates the valorization of flaxseed bioactive compounds through encapsulation in alginate- and chitosan-based nanoparticles. The approach aims to protect flaxseed’s unsaturated fatty acids, proteins, and phenolic compounds, enhancing their stability, bioavailability, and functional performance while facilitating their incorporation into nutraceutical and cosmetic formulations. Differentiation and informed positioning Some brands have chosen to differentiate themselves by explicitly highlighting the delivery systems used for their active ingredients. One example is Akore, a brand owned by the French group Pharmanature. The company develops delivery technologies in collaboration with partners and offers a range of liposomal dietary supplements. For its part, Quimidroga exclusively distributes the LipoVes platform in France, Spain, and Portugal. Developed by the Swiss company UBIB, LipoVes is an advanced technology for encapsulating cosmetic active ingredients in nanosome structures. “These systems are based on a nanotechnology approach, while not being considered nanoparticles within the meaning of cosmetic regulations. They are designed to improve the transport of active ingredients, promote better interaction with the skin, and deliver a more gradual and sustained effect over time compared with conventional liposomal systems used in cosmetics,” explains Marc Solans, Director of Technical, Marketing & Development at Quimidroga. “Another technology, Tetra-Ceramide LipoVes, combines four ceramides into a nanosomal complex particularly suited for barrier care, skin repair, long-lasting hydration, and formulations designed for dry or compromised skin. We also work with Retinaldehyde LipoVes, a nanoencapsulated form of retinaldehyde. This approach enables better integration of this sensitive active ingredient into cosmetic formulations, with more gradual release and improved skin tolerance compared with conventional incorporation,” he adds. LipoVes technology can also be applied to other cosmetic actives, including azelaic acid, alpha-lipoic acid, ferulic acid, and bakuchiol, among others. These Nanostructured Lipid Carrier (NLC) systems are composed of a blend of solid and liquid lipids stabilized by surfactants. “The imperfectly formed lipid matrix allows higher active ingredient loading while providing greater stability. Other advantages include enhanced protection of sensitive actives, controlled release, and easier formulation. This technology also enables continuous innovation. This year, we launched PréciSome, an NLC platform for UV absorbers. By encapsulating chemical UV filters in nanostructured lipid carriers, the technology creates a protective shield on the skin’s surface while delivering high-performance UVA and UVB protection. It is also easily dispersible, making it suitable for cold-process formulation, and produces a light, non-greasy texture,” explains Urs Haller, CEO of UBIB. Through these different approaches, nanoscience is emerging as a key driver of innovation, offering new ways to enhance both the efficacy and protection of cosmetic formulations.