Трихолог объяснила, как правильно использовать сухой шампунь, чтобы не навредить волосам

I have a confession. I am a dry shampoo obsessive who often finds herself wondering: is dry shampoo bad for your hair? It’s not because I don’t wash my hair regularly; the conundrum that I have is that I go to the gym four to five times a week and washing my locks after every sweat-intensive session is far too tedious. So that’s why I’m always coating my strands with dry shampoo formulas, which buys me a little extra time between actual shampoo sessions. But that isn’t the only reason why: I’ll often spray dry shampoo onto freshly-washed hair, too, giving it volume and texture and encouraging hairstyles to last longer with my naturally fine, flat mane. Dry shampoos have come a long way in the 15 years since they entered my life and routine. Once synonymous with a grey, powdery finish, the category has seen major innovations. “Dry shampoo is formulated with ingredients like rice or corn starch and/or alcohol to help ‘soak up’ excess oils on the scalp and give roots a refreshed look and a cleaner feel,” explains Anabel Kingsley, lead trichologist and brand president at Philip Kingsley. Though, she wants to make clear that despite the name, dry shampooing will not clean your scalp and hair to the same degree as shampoo. For this, Kingsley stresses, “you need water and some sort of surfactant.” As for whether it's bad for your hair? That depends on your usage. “Using dry shampoo to extend a day or two between washes is likely okay but relying on one as a regular replacement for real shampoo will not do your scalp any favours,” says Kingsley. This is due to product build-up. Over a long period of time, it can “result in scalp itching, irritation, a build-up of dead skin cells and clogged follicles,” which, according to the trichologist, could “impact the growth of your hair.” This is especially important to note for conditions like dandruff or seborrhoeic dermatitis, since “stretching out more than two days between shampoos is likely to worsen it.” Build-up also weighs down the strands, leaving them limp, dull and dry. To prevent this from becoming the case, the expert recommends a double shampoo or calling on the powers of a deep-cleaning clarifying shampoo. While dry shampoo won’t directly affect scalp health with its formula, the lack of cleansing leaves follicle-clogging dead skin cells, sebum and residue from styling products behind. The sweet spot, details the expert, is to only use dry shampoo as a one-day hair refreshing extension: “I would not use it for more than two days in a row and if you have fine hair, no more than one day.” For best practices, she advises spraying it, letting it dry and then brushing through your hair. The last step is often missed, but this helps to distribute the formula and clear oil, while also removing residue powder. In terms of ingredients, look for scalp-loving heroes like allantoin, Zinc PCA and niacinamide. Dry shampoo, as I often use it, can double up as a styling solution, too. Kingsley says this is a popular use of this haircare product, detailing, “Dry shampoo can be used as a styling aid at the end of the day to refresh limp roots and add body.” Some frequently asked questions about dry shampoo Dry shampoo isn’t inherently bad for your hair when used occasionally. Problems can arise when it replaces regular washing and product, oil and dead skin build up on the scalp. Anabel Kingsley recommends using dry shampoo for no more than two days in a row. If you have fine hair, limit it to one day before properly washing your hair. Dry shampoo doesn’t directly cause hair loss, but excessive build-up can clog follicles and irritate the scalp, which may negatively affect healthy hair growth over time. Yes. Dry shampoo can be applied to clean hair as a styling product to add volume, texture and grip, particularly if your hair is naturally fine or flat. Yes. Dry shampoo absorbs excess oil but doesn’t actually cleanse the scalp. Regular shampoo and water are still needed to remove sebum, dead skin cells and styling-product residue. Spray it onto the roots, allow the formula to dry and then brush it through. Brushing helps distribute the product, absorb oil and remove excess powder and residue. Below, the Vogue-approved dry shampoos with high-performance and kind-to-scalp formulations. Milk Shake Lifestyling Dry Shampoo Moroccanoil Dark Tone Dry Shampoo Kérastase Fresh Affair Dry Shampoo Olaplex No. 4D Clean Volume Detox Dry Shampoo L'Occitane Purifying Freshness Dry Shampoo Mist Schwarzkopf Professional OSiS+ Dust It Mattifying Volume Powder Antinorm High & Dry This article first appeared on Vogue.co.uk