Томат «Яйцо быка»: как отличить традиционный сорт из Малаги и где его купить

Food and drink Huevo de Toro tomatoes: how to recognise them and where to buy them Farmers and chefs explain the key features of this traditional variety from the Guadalhorce Valley, so you can learn how to choose it, find the main places where it’s sold, and make the most of a season packed with culinary delights Malaga The ‘Huevo de Toro’ (bull's ball) tomato doesn’t always look particularly appealing at first glance. And that’s where much of the confusion ... begins. Anyone looking for a perfectly round, completely red, smooth and unblemished tomato might make a mistake when choosing one of the most eagerly awaited summer produce in the Guadalhorce Valley. With this traditional variety, some of the features that might appear to be flaws in other tomatoes are, in fact, part of its identity. Sebastián Hevilla, a farmer and expert on this crop, sums it up with a simple idea: not all tomatoes are the same. “We’re growing them outdoors, using organic methods. We’re going to find a lot of variation,” he explains. This diversity of shapes, sizes and appearances is not due to a flaw, but to the very nature of an heirloom variety, grown in conditions very different from those of the more uniform commercial tomatoes. One of the most common questions concerns the marks that appear on some tomatoes. Hevilla refers, for example, to the pistil scar, located on the underside of the fruit. “There’s nothing wrong with it; it’s not damaged, it’s simply a scar. It looks a bit scruffy, but the tomato tastes absolutely delicious,” he explains. In other words, a ‘Huevo de Toro’ tomato with a visible mark isn’t necessarily spoiled. It may simply be one of those irregular tomatoes that shouldn’t be dismissed at first glance. The same applies to the well-known ‘green shoulders’. In other varieties, the buyer might interpret them as a sign of under-ripeness. In the case of the ‘Huevo de Toro’, however, they are one of its characteristic features. “Even when ripe, it still has green shoulders,” recalls Hevilla. For this reason, choosing only tomatoes that are uniformly red may mean missing out on perfectly ripe ones. The cracks tell a story too. “When the tomato ripens on the vine, the skin bursts. The skin is very thin,” explains the farmer. That delicate skin is one of the reasons why this tomato is so highly prized, but also so fragile. It cannot withstand long journeys or excessive handling. That is why it remains closely linked to local consumption and a specific season. The name, which is as striking as they come, also helps to explain it. According to Hevilla, it’s not just about the shape, but about what’s inside. "The tomato is firm, full and lean," he points out. It is a tomato with plenty of flesh, very little waste and very few seeds. That dense texture is one of the keys to its reputation amongst farmers, chefs and lovers of fine produce. José Carlos García, president of the Asociación Tomate Huevo de Toro, points out that this is an old variety from the Guadalhorce region which was on the verge of disappearing with the spread of more productive hybrid tomatoes. Its revival has restored the prominence of a crop that has now become a gastronomic and economic mainstay for many families in the valley. A great campaign This year’s season is looking promising. According to figures provided by the association, there are around 230,000 plants in the region, with an estimated yield of 1.5 million kilos if the crop develops well. The spring rains have delayed the arrival on the market somewhat, but have not affected the expected quality. The peak season is concentrated in July and August, with produce also available in September if conditions are favourable. To tell the genuine article apart, the first clue is clear: it must bear the identification stamp of the Asociación Tomate Huevo de Toro. This mark helps to distinguish the product grown by member farmers in the Guadalhorce Valley. Pepe Cobos, a businessman, farmer and great advocate of this variety, sums it up with a mixture of pride and simplicity: "You can tell it apart by the Huevo de Toro tomato seal." Although, for him, the ultimate test lies in the flavour: “Once you take a bite,” there’s no doubt about it. Cobos argues that much of this character stems from the region itself. He speaks of the soil, the climate and the influence of the sea as factors that give the Guadalhorce produce its distinctive character. And he does so with passion: “It’s a unique tomato,” he says. His statement is not intended to provide a technical description, but rather to convey the pride of those who have seen this crop go from being almost forgotten to becoming one of Malaga’s gastronomic symbols. Where to buy it Finding a genuine ‘Huevo de Toro’ tomato is relatively straightforward during the season, provided you look out for the Asociación Tomate Huevo de Toro identification sticker. One of the easiest ways is to visit the Guadalhorce Agri-Food Market every Sunday, from 9am to 2pm, located next to the entrance to Coín, where several member farmers sell their freshly harvested produce directly. They can also be purchased directly from the farms in the Guadalhorce Valley, usually by prior arrangement. In many cases, buying directly from the farm means you can take home tomatoes that are practically fresh off the vine. Participating producers include La Huerta de Carmen, Finca Guerrero Los Llanos, Huerta La Hortelana, Salvador Hevilla Villalobos, Cortijo El Chopo, Familia Hevilla, Finca González Los Llanos, Finca Pedro García Díaz, Finca Salvador Pérez, Finca Miguel González Salas-La Hilita and Huerta El Narajá, the latter of which also has a sales point at Frutería María Iglesia in Benalmádena. It is precisely this local marketing that is one of the hallmarks of this variety. Its extremely thin skin and delicate nature make long-distance transport difficult, which is why a large proportion of the produce continues to be sold very close to the orchards where it is grown, preserving intact the qualities that have made it one of the great summer products of Malaga. How to eat it The other big question is how to eat it. And on this point, chefs are almost unanimously in agreement: the less you mess with it, the better. Daniel Nebro, from the restaurant La Algarbía in Pizarra, is clear on this. “Mainly, just eat it as it is. It doesn’t need much more preparation,” he explains. In a salad, gazpacho, porra or simply chopped up with a little salt and oil are some of the simplest ways to enjoy it. Sarai Aragón, from the Casa Palma restaurant, highlights its texture. “It’s a really fleshy tomato with very few seeds. You can practically use it whole,” she says. For gazpacho, she notes, it adds a lot of flavour because “it’s all tomato, with no water”. She also considers it suitable for dishes such as tartare, provided the produce is treated with respect. Her advice is clear: “The less you handle the produce – when it’s of high quality – the more flavour it has.” Mariano Rodríguez, from the restaurant M de Mariano, agrees with this view. “Mainly oil, salt and the tomato. Nothing else,” he sums up. For him, the key lies in the texture and the flavour. “Flavour is non-negotiable,” he asserts. There may be more visually striking dishes or more elaborate techniques, but the true value of this tomato becomes apparent the moment it touches your tongue. That doesn’t mean it can’t be used in other dishes. Chefs also highlight how well it works in gazpacho, porra or homemade tomato sauce. Daniel Nebro points out that it works well in traditional tomato-based dishes all year round, whilst Mariano Rodríguez notes that, when he receives a large haul of ripe tomatoes, he uses them to make tomato sauce or porra. Even so, they all come back to the same basic principle: the best way to honour it is usually not to cover it up. Key dates The campaign also features several key dates. The gastronomic tour will take place from 31 July to 31 August in restaurants across the province. Prior to this, the programme also includes activities aimed at promoting the product, including the poetry competition introduced this year. The Verbena Tomatera is scheduled for 13 and 14 August in Coín, and on 15 August one of the best-known events will take place: the tasting competition and auction of the best ‘Huevo de Toro’ tomatoes, in aid of charity. This whole programme confirms that the ‘Huevo de Toro’ tomato is no longer just a summer crop. It is also a way of championing the Guadalhorce vegetable-growing region, local farming and the revival of traditional varieties. Just a few years ago, this tomato had been relegated to the background. Today, it returns every summer, generating a sense of anticipation that is evident in the markets, in kitchens and on dining tables. The key, for anyone who wants to enjoy it properly, is to learn to look at it in a different way. You shouldn’t necessarily be looking for the most perfect tomato, but rather one that displays the hallmarks of this variety: grown in the open air, with an identification stamp, green shoulders, thin skin, plenty of flesh, few seeds and a short growing season. Sometimes, the Huevo de Toro that’s most worth trying isn’t the one that looks the prettiest, but the one that best captures the character of the Guadalhorce vegetable gardens.