Ученые раскрыли три ключевых фактора, определяющих качество шоколада: от микробиоты ферментации до формы кристаллов сахара

Chocolate consistency, explained: - Selected microbial communities could make cocoa fermentation and fine-flavour development more predictable. - Controlling cocoa butter’s crystal structure is essential for achieving chocolate’s expected gloss, snap and melting behaviour. - New research suggests even the shape of sugar particles could influence fat migration, bloom formation and shelf life. When chocolate leaks from a pain au chocolat, the ingredient is often blamed for a failure that actually began with baton placement, dough sealing or proofing. But that doesn’t mean chocolate manufacturers have eliminated variability from their own processes. Long before chocolate reaches a bakery line, its flavour, flow, melting behaviour and resistance to bloom have been shaped by an intricate sequence of microbial, chemical and physical changes. Chocolate is an unusually complicated material. Cocoa solids, sugar crystals and, in milk chocolate, milk powder are suspended in a continuous fat phase dominated by cocoa butter. Alter the size, shape, proportion or arrangement of those particles and the chocolate may flow, set, melt or taste differently. The manufacturing challenge is to control that complexity consistently, despite agricultural variation, spontaneous fermentation and a fat capable of crystallising in several different forms. Scientists are now moving deeper into those variables. Research in Colombia and Australia suggests cocoa fermentation could be directed to produce more predictable flavour profiles, while other teams are using ultrasound, naturally occurring lipids and even reshaped sugar crystals to influence tempering and delay bloom. The ambition extends beyond producing a more luxurious bar. With cocoa expensive, production increasingly automated and manufacturers under pressure to reduce waste, consistency carries direct commercial value. Chocolate that tastes different between harvests, thickens unexpectedly, loses its gloss or develops a white surface during distribution creates problems that travel from the cocoa farm to the bakery, factory and retail shelf. Chocolate flavour starts with a microbial takeover Cocoa fermentation remains one of chocolate production’s least controlled but most influential stages. Once cacao pods are opened, the beans and their surrounding white pulp are generally placed in boxes, heaps or baskets and left to ferment for several days. Yeasts begin by consuming sugars in the pulp and producing ethanol. Other microorganisms then convert the alcohol into acids, while heat and acidity trigger chemical changes inside the beans. These reactions reduce bitterness and astringency and generate flavour precursors that are subsequently developed during drying and roasting. Unlike brewing, where producers routinely use selected yeast strains, cocoa fermentation has traditionally depended heavily on microorganisms already present on the farm. Temperature, pH, airflow, turning practices and the local microbial population can all shift the outcome, producing cocoa with floral, fruity, nutty, roasted or tropical notes – or a less desirable and inconsistent result. A 2025 Nature Microbiology study moved the industry closer to understanding that microbial ecosystem. Researchers monitored fermentations in the Colombian regions of Santander, Huila and Antioquia, tracking changes in temperature and acidity alongside bacterial and fungal communities. The cocoa from Santander and Huila produced fruity, floral and citrus characteristics associated with fine-flavour chocolate. Fermentation at the Antioquia site followed a different microbial and physicochemical trajectory, producing cocoa liquor without the same aromatic profile. The researchers then used genomic analysis to identify microorganisms and metabolic activity associated with the desired flavours. From that work, they assembled a defined community of nine microorganisms and used it to ferment sterile cocoa beans under controlled conditions. The resulting cocoa reproduced important chemical and sensory characteristics of fine-flavour fermentation, including recognisable cocoa, floral and fruity notes with lower bitterness and astringency. Manufacturers can’t yet order an exact chocolate flavour from a microbial catalogue because farm conditions, cocoa genetics and post-harvest handling remain part of the equation. However, the findings raise the possibility of replacing some of fermentation’s unpredictability with selected starter cultures or farm practices designed to favour particular microorganisms. Australia puts cocoa terroir under scrutiny New Australian research strengthens the argument that fermentation can matter as much as where cocoa is grown. Food chemist Dr Marlize Bekker and colleagues at the University of Queensland compared volatile and non-volatile compounds in cocoa nibs from Fishery Falls, Mount Etna and Shannonvale in Far North Queensland. Their study, published in Food Chemistry: X, examined cocoa from different locations and tree types to determine what was driving variations in composition and aroma. “We had different types of cocoa trees and we thought that would have a big impact on the flavour, but the tree’s genotype had a much smaller role to play than the fermentation process itself,” says Dr Bekker. The finding complicates the familiar idea of cocoa terroir. Genetics, soil, rainfall and climate contribute to the raw material, but the microorganisms colonising a fermentation may substantially reshape what eventually reaches the consumer. “Whatever is in the environment drives the natural fermentation – nothing is introduced – and we know it is critically important for flavour and quality,” adds Dr Bekker. The findings could help Australia’s small cocoa sector establish a premium position based on distinctive flavour and consistent quality. Chris Jahnke, president of industry body Cacao and Chocolate of Australian Origin (CACAO) and CEO of Charley’s Chocolate Factory, says that requires producers to “control the processes very tightly and understand the likely outcomes” – precisely what a clearer understanding of local microflora could make possible. Although the research is preliminary, the team has identified aroma compounds previously associated with particular sensory characteristics and now plans to confirm those relationships through human sensory trials. Dr Bekker also wants to use metagenomic testing to establish which microorganisms are driving the observed profiles, meaning precision-fermented flavour still has several scientific hurdles to clear before becoming a practical commercial tool. The six faces of cocoa butter Once cocoa has been fermented, dried, roasted, ground and combined with sugar and other ingredients, manufacturers face a different consistency problem: persuading cocoa butter to crystallise correctly. Cocoa butter can form six principal crystal structures, or polymorphs, but they don’t deliver the same chocolate. The prized Form V, also described as β-V, gives properly tempered chocolate its gloss, clean snap and ability to remain firm at room temperature before melting close to body temperature. Tempering uses carefully controlled heating, cooling and agitation to encourage those desirable crystals while removing unstable forms. Get it wrong and the chocolate may set slowly, appear dull, break softly or melt differently in the mouth. Researchers are investigating ways to make that process faster and more predictable. Ultrasound can create localised fluctuations in pressure and temperature that promote nucleation, the point at which crystals begin forming. Other experiments suggest that adding small quantities of phospholipids already naturally present in cocoa butter can provide additional sites for crystal growth, potentially producing the desired structure with fewer traditional tempering stages. Any shortcut must work beyond the laboratory. Chocolate tempering is influenced by formulation, particle size, shear, equipment, cooling rate and production volume. A technique that structures cocoa butter successfully in a controlled sample must still deliver uniform results through pumps, pipes, depositors, enrobers and cooling tunnels. Why good chocolate still turns white Even correctly tempered chocolate can deteriorate during storage. Fat bloom creates the grey or white film frequently mistaken for mould, particularly after exposure to warm or fluctuating temperatures. The chocolate may remain safe, but its commercial value falls sharply. Bloom damages gloss, weakens the anticipated snap and can slow melting in the mouth, producing a waxier or chalkier sensation. Retailers and consumers read it as old, mishandled or defective, making bloom both a quality problem and a source of avoidable waste. The precise mechanism remains contested, although one explanation is that liquid fat migrates through the chocolate’s microscopic structure and recrystallises at the surface in a more stable form. Temperature cycling accelerates the process, which is why distribution through hot climates or poorly controlled warehouses presents such a problem. A 2024 study by researchers at East China University of Science and Technology and the University of Wisconsin-Madison suggests sugar-particle shape may influence that migration. The team added water during the preparation of a white chocolate model to smooth the sharp surfaces of sucrose crystals, then removed the moisture through heating. Chocolate containing the rounder particles developed less bloom during storage, apparently because they packed together more tightly and left fewer routes through which liquid fat could travel. The discovery reframes sugar as more than a sweetener or bulking agent because its physical geometry may also help determine chocolate’s long-term stability. There’s no single intervention capable of eliminating variability from cocoa farm to finished pastry. Fermentation control can’t compensate for poor roasting, perfect tempering can’t protect chocolate from every temperature shock and a technically flawless baton can still leak from badly sealed dough. But every variable brought under tighter control removes another opportunity for expensive cocoa to become inconsistent chocolate – and, in today’s market, manufacturers can’t afford to let quality bloom into waste. Studies: Gopaulchan D, Moore C, Ali N et al. A defined microbial community reproduces attributes of fine flavour chocolate fermentation. Nat Microbiol 10, 2130–2152 (2025). https://doi.org/10.1038/s41564-025-02077-6 Wang J, Bekker MZ. Compositional profiling of volatile and non-volatile compounds in Australian cocoa nibs: Insights into origin-dependent variability. Food Chem X. 2026 Jul 16;38:104220. https://doi.or/10.1016/j.fochx.2026.104220. PMID: 42495695; PMCID: PMC13393560. Jin J, Shen L, Xu Ye X, et al, Effects of surface modification of sucrose particles on chocolate morphology and fat bloom during storage, Journal of Food Engineering, Volume 379, 2024, 112125, ISSN 0260-8774, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jfoodeng.2024.112125.