Тихий городок Фэрфакс в округе Марин приглашает туристов на велопрогулки, шопинг и фестивали

Getting your Trinity Audio player ready... Fairfax, in Marin County, is perhaps the hippest — or you might say “hippiest” — little town in the entire San Francisco Bay Area. This charming, woodsy enclave, set in the upper reaches of the Ross Valley just northwest of San Anselmo, is the gateway to the pristine watershed lands of Mount Tamalpais and the coastal parklands of West Marin. For Bay Area hikers, nature lovers, trail runners and other outdoor enthusiasts, Fairfax is a longtime favorite, a prime destination for outdoor adventure. Bicycling is especially popular here; on weekends, road cyclists converge here en masse to start scenic countryside rides, and mountain bikers take on more challenging paths in the nearby Mount Tamalpais watershed lands, Marin open space and the private single-track trails in Boy Scout-owned Camp Tamarancho (day-use pass or annual permit is required). But before you pull on your hiking boots or strap on a bike helmet, don’t miss Fairfax’s small and lively downtown, centered on a few streets branching off Sir Francis Drake Boulevard. It’s a delightfully walkable place, with boutiques and variety shops galore, cafes, coffee shops and clubs. It’s got an Old West feeling: Historical buildings, like the circa 1920 Alpine Building housing the Coffee Roastery, line Broadway and Bolinas Road, forming the downtown hub. Old-school saloons with neon lights and crowded brewpubs invite imbibers and diners. Quaint businesses purvey their goods from tiny rustic cottages. Trendy restaurants bustle with crowds, and families and kids stroll the streets with cones and bowls of organic ice cream from tiny Fairfax Scoop. Fairfax nightlife comes alive at Macs at 19 Broadway and Peri’s on both weekdays and weekends, evoking the free-spirited, party-and-music-driven days of the 1960s and 1970s that once made San Francisco and Marin County world-famous. The grand, neon-graced marquee of the landmark 1950s-era Fairfax movie theater anchors the social scene downtown. This solar-powered, multiscreen venue has been completely remodeled with comfortable seating and touts $6.50 discounted tickets all day on Tuesdays. Just down Broadway from the theater, a 90-year-old “five-and-dime”-style variety store called Fairfax Variety has an incredible array of timeless sweets, from Beeman’s Chewing Gum and Charleston Chew to Turkish Taffy, plus old-fashioned board games like Operation and Parcheesi, classic puzzles, toys and a fascinating selection of arcane and useful goods. For cycling aficionados, you can peruse and get supplies at numerous bike shops, including Sunshine Bikes, Krakatoa Bikes, Marin Service Course and Splitrock Tap & Wheel, a full-service bike shop that also serves craft beer and food. Don’t miss the Marin Museum of Bicycling and Mountain Bike Hall of Fame, curated by Marin native Joe Breeze, a pioneering mountain bike builder. After rides, many thirsty cyclists head to the Splitrock, the Fairfax Brewing Company or the fun and funky, bike-oriented Gestalt Haus, known for its bratwurst and sandwiches. Eating and drinking Today, Fairfax is a magnet for foodies, with hot spots like Village Sake, serving up izakaya fare by Sushi Ran chef Scott Whitman. The new La Gastronomia di Porchetta offers “cucina Toscana” in an elegant setting across from Bolinas Park, and the relatively new Fairfax Brewing Company beckons food and drink lovers with craft beers and solid pub fare. Local favorite Sorella Caffe offers classic Italian cuisine, and you can find also find Thai (My Thai), Mexican-Californian (Mas Masa), Mediterranean (Mario’s Fairfix Cafe), Ba Mi Bah (traditional Southeast Asian street food), Fradelizio’s (old-school Italian cuisine) and French-influenced cuisine (Amelie) around town. For a quick bite, check out the window service called Cowboy Bento on the side of My Thai restaurant in downtown Fairfax. It’s a quirky little place run by a genial guy who calls himself “Cowboy Chris,” and for a mere $10, you get a tasty Thai “bento box” with entrees including pad Thai, basil chicken, chicken wings and red curry chicken, as well as side dishes like cucumber salad. Open from 3 p.m. “until late” Wednesdays through Sundays, Cowboy Bento offers a handful of outdoor tables surrounded by exotic plants where, after 8:30 p.m., you can enjoy music emanating from Peri’s next door. Nearby, trendy Stillwater has $2 oysters on Tuesdays and offers indoor and outdoor seating. Boutiques and baubles The spirit of the ‘60s hippie era is conjured up at some of Fairfax’s small boutiques such as El Huitzilli Lady Hummingbird (a “metaphysical supply store”), Herban Garden (offering ethically sourced goods), the Eleventh House (tarot cards, jewelry and crystals), Tibet Moon (incense, crystals, Asian imports). Brand new in town is La Flor cannabis dispensary, which offers medicinal products in-store and a delivery service for adults ages 21 and older. The Wu Wei Tea Temple offers tea, kava and tarot card readings and is down the street from the Barefoot Cafe (new American cuisine), Cafe Lotus (organic Indian fare) and Mana Bowls (organic acai bowls and smoothies). Fairfax’s iconic Good Earth natural foods store was founded in 1969 and still thrives today. Just as fun are Fairfax’s shops offering a diverse range of clothing and accessories. These includes Emma’s Shop (women’s fashion), Tommy Breeze Art & Apparel (designer trucker hats), California Cowboy (vintage-inspired apparel), Sona’s (men’s clothing), Revolution 9 (gifts and colorful Fairfax tee shirts), Magpie (consignment and vintage), Shimmer (consignment fashion) and Lola’s Depot (fashionable recycled clothing) and Tibet Moon (incense, crystals, Asian imports) all sprinkled throughout the downtown area. It’s all very Fairfax — you get the picture. The town’s colorful past Fairfax’s historical architecture, including its modest 19th century homes found along narrow streets, lends to its charm. In the 1870s, Fairfax was a stop on the narrow-gauge North Coast Pacific Railroad train line connecting the Sausalito ferry to San Francisco with stops in western Marin and Sonoma counties. The rail line was electrified in 1908, and commuter trains operated until 1941. But long before that, the area was originally inhabited by the Coast Miwok people, who lived here for thousands of years. Spanish explorers arrived in the late 18th century, and in 1855, Scottish American pioneer and California State Assembly Speaker Lord Charles Snowden Fairfax settled on land he called “Bird’s Nest Glen.” Known for throwing lavish parties, Fairfax served Daniel Showalter and Charles W. Piercy lunch just before his fellow Assembly members engaged in a duel to settle a bitter political disagreement in 1861. Piercy died in what was the last political duel in the state. Fairfax died in 1869, and in the 1890s, his former home became Pastori’s, a hotel and restaurant where, in the early 20th century, Irving Berlin performed on the tree platform in the outdoor dining area. Long appreciated for its natural beauty, the Fairfax area was also the setting for several Broncho Billy Westerns shot, including the 1914 silent film “Salomy Jane” — the debut feature of the California Motion Picture Corporation — which was partially filmed on location in West Marin, including scenes shot along Lagunitas Creek near Fairfax and Lagunitas. In the ’60s and ’70s, Fairfax became known for its music scene and celebrity residents. Iconic bands like Big Brother and the Holding Company, featuring Janis Joplin, played in the Fairfax Pavilion, a historic municipal building in the heart of town. Van Morrison, who lived in town in the early 1970s, performed regularly at the Sleeping Lady Cafe. And local legend has it that members of the Jefferson Airplane played softball against the Grateful Dead in a downtown ball field on more than one occasion in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Things to do this fall In September, the Fairfax Theater Company presents “pay-as-you-will” performances of Oscar Wilde’s “The Importance of Being Earnest” with performances held over three weekends: Sept. 11-13; Sept. 18-20 and Sept. 26. Friday and Saturday evening shows are at 7:30 p.m., and Saturday and Sunday matinees are at 3 p.m. Details: fairfaxtheatrecompany.com. On Oct. 10, Fairfax hosts the 20th annual Biketoberfest, a popular gathering of bicycle and beer fans. Some 20 breweries are represented, and you can choose 9-ounce half-pint tasters, single-drink tickets and $40 passes. The event kicks off with a group mountain bike ride from 9-11 a.m. followed by beer tastings from noon to 5 p.m. Details: marintrailstewards.org/biketoberfest. On Wednesdays from 4-8 p.m., the Fairfax Farmers Market pops up in the redwood groves of Bolinas Park in the heart of downtown. Shop for farm-fresh fruit and vegetables, baked goods and locally made goods. Food trucks and live music round out the weekly event, which runs through October. Details: townoffairfaxca.gov.