Азербайджан: от пляжей и музыкального фестиваля до горных троп за неделю

Flicking through my camera roll at the airport, it’s difficult to fathom everything I’d packed into less than a week. There are shots of me soaking up the beach, living it up at a music festival, and checking into the luxurious confines of the Ritz-Carlton, then out on the streets of an ancient yet ultra-modern city. The final images show me hiking through an untouched mountain landscape at sunrise, with not another person in sight. Can you guess where I am yet? You might assume I’d hopped over to one of Europe’s classic destinations that squeezes vibrant cities, majestic mountains and beautiful beaches into one relatively compact country… Spain or Greece, perhaps. Ask Metro Use AI to go deeper into the stories you care about – powered by Metro and trusted publications. But actually, I’ve just been in Azerbaijan. This country in the Caucasus region of Eurasia, about the size of South Carolina, or the island of Ireland, is a cultural tapestry woven by Persian, Turkic, Arabic and Russian influence. I was drawn to the crossroads of eastern Europe and western Asia after receiving an invitation to Dream Fest, one of the country’s biggest music festivals founded by Azerbaijani singer and entrepreneur Emin Agalarov, but decided to tack on a few extra days to see what else this fascinating place had up its sleeve. And I have to say, of the 20 destinations I’ve travelled to so far this year, it’s the one that has stuck with me most. If everyone is talking about travelmaxxing, the Gen Z art of wringing the absolute most out of a single destination, then Azerbaijan is the place to do it. I started my trip at Sea Breeze, Azerbaijan’s answer to Dubai. The ambitious development, which is set to be home to more than 500,000 residents when complete, sits on the shores of the glittering Caspian Sea and is rapidly transforming this stretch of coastline into a playground for the wealthy. On my morning run, it was hard to work out quite where I was. Immaculate grounds, manicured lawns and perfectly paved jogging routes stretched out in front of me. At times, the scene hints at America. I spotted signs pointing towards Palm Beach and Miami Beach. It was only the flat waters of the Caspian Sea that reminded me I was definitely not in Florida. After three days exploring the coast and soaking up the atmosphere at Dream Fest, which drew thousands of attendees each night (Busta Rhymes headlined), I ventured to the capital, Baku, for rest and recuperation. The Old City, or Icherisheher, is the historic heart, with attractive limestone buildings and compact, labyrinthine alleyways that feel a world away from the gleaming skyline beyond. Cats slink through the streets, while vendors squeeze fresh orange and pomegranate – the national fruit – for passers-by. Like much of the region, carpet-making is an important part of the cultural heritage. Intricate rugs and textiles spill from shops and hang from balconies, adding splashes of colour to the sandy-hued streets. But step outside the Old City, and it feels as though you’ve been transported into the future. Baku’s skyline is full of ambitious contemporary architecture, from the sweeping curves of the Heydar Aliyev Center, designed by the late Zaha Hadid, to the futuristic Crescent development rising along the Caspian waterfront. High above the city, the three Flame Towers, completed in 2012, flicker against the night sky from the heights of Highland Park – a fitting symbol for a country known as the ‘Land of Fire’. The nickname has ancient roots. For thousands of years, Azerbaijan’s naturally occurring gas seeps have caused flames to burn from the ground, inspiring legends and attracting Zoroastrian fire worshippers, who regarded these eternal flames as sacred. Even today, fire feels woven into the fabric of the place – from its ancient temples and glowing towers to traditional dishes of rice, meat and vegetables cooked over open flames and hot coals. As I ate my way around, I was surprised by how affordable Baku can be. In one restaurant, I spotted a lunch deal for 8 manat (around £3.50), while a 15-minute taxi ride from the Four Seasons, where I’d enjoyed an evening cocktail, back to my digs cost just £2. After a couple of nights in the city, I begrudgingly left the opulent surrounds of my hotel – which I have to say, ranks among my favourite Ritz-Carlton stays anywhere in the world, largely thanks to the exceptional standard of service – and headed for the mountains. I’d heard Azerbaijan’s ski scene was gradually gaining momentum, but the same region, Shahdag, offers a very different experience during the summer months, with hiking trails winding through its spectacular mountain landscape. The drive from Baku to Shahdag takes a few hours, heading north towards the country’s mountainous border region, but it was well worth the trip. Azerbaijan is surrounded by a fascinating mix of neighbours, sharing land borders with Russia, Georgia, Armenia and Iran. The Caspian Sea stretches along its eastern edge. I was in the north close to Russia, the steady increase in Lada cars the only sign. In Shahdag, I met Nazrin Garibova, who is helping develop hiking trails across the country. She offered to show me some of the best routes we could tackle in a short window. When I first arrived at my mountain lodge, the resort was shrouded in thick fog, making the surrounding valleys almost impossible to see. With hiking seemingly off the cards, I hit the spa instead, before we decided to get up at sunrise and give the trail a go. Our early-morning efforts paid off. We tackled the Kuzun to Laza trail, a scenic mountain route through the Shahdag region stretching for around 7.5km one way. It would normally take between three and five hours to complete, but with my flight looming and a need to get back to the city, we ran it. Somehow, we made it in just under an hour and a half. We were moving quickly, but there was one point where even we had to stop and take it all in. Canyons, gorges and jagged peaks rolled out before us, the morning light slowly illuminating the landscape. We sat, sipped traditional Azerbaijani tea and soaked up the view. It was one of those moments that truly rewards getting up at an ungodly hour. And then, just like that, I was back inside the modern terminal of Baku airport later that day. If travelmaxxing is the hottest new thing, then my trip to Azerbaijan had definitely ticked the box. In less than a week, I’d managed to go from beaches and a music festival to luxury hotels, ancient streets, futuristic architecture and a sunrise mountain hike. Not bad for one trip. The essentials Getting there Return flights from London to Baku with Azerbaijan Airlines start from around £420 in September. Where to stay The budget-friendly Art Gallery Hotel has rooms from £65 a night, while at the other end of the scale, The Ritz-Carlton, Baku starts from £238 a night. In the mountains, Shahdag Hotel & Spa has rooms from £70 a night. MORE: The best holiday destinations to watch the ‘eclipse of the century’ in 2027 MORE: I saw the solar eclipse from a giant floating theatre — it was like winning the cosmic lottery MORE: The Greek island with otherworldly beaches, mythical festivals and friendly locals