Коста-Меса: от роскошного South Coast Plaza до локальных анти-моллов и крафтовых пивоварен

Orange County’s Costa Mesa, California, is a tale of two cities: On one side of the 405 freeway you’ll find South Coast Plaza, one of the largest shopping malls in the country and the largest in all of California, along with the epicenter of the Orange County arts scene and high-end restaurants. On the other side, you’ll find a contrast to their bustling neighbor across the freeway—open-air shopping centers with a locals-only flair featuring standout breweries, activities, and food. Called The Lab Anti-Mall and The Camp, they are not your average indoor mall (the ones that originally opened in the 80s, 90s, and early aughts), but also not your average shopping center; you’ll just have to see for yourself. While tourists often chose Orange County’s iconic coastal cities for their travels—Costa Mesa’s westernmost border is just over a mile from the ocean—the City of the Arts leaves little left to be desired. What’s now the Orange County Fair and Event Center, was the Santa Ana Army Air Base during WWII, which brought thousands to the area, many of whom ended up staying. The population boom started from there, turning a military base with rural farm roots into what is now a destination for dining and play. Getting there and around There’s no more-convenient place to visit in Orange County: John Wayne International Airport (SNA), ranked among the best airports in the country, is minutes away. Despite its pristine appearance, it is also going through a $700 million multi-year improvement project to make it even more of a breeze. Though there are a few public transportation options in Costa Mesa, such as OCTA buses and Let's Go Costa Mesa! electric rideshare vehicles, to make the most of your trip, you will likely want to rent a car or take ride shares from place to place. Depending on where your hotel is and what experiences you choose, though, walking can also be a great option much of the time. The best things to do in Costa Mesa This is dubbed the City of the Arts for good reason. Within the Costa Mesa Theatre & Arts District, you’ll find a multidisciplinary schedule of events across multiple venues; it’s home to the Pacific Symphony, Philharmonic Society of Orange County, and Pacific Chorale. At the Segerstrom Center for the Arts, which houses six venues on its campus, performances range from Disney's Beauty and the Beast to The Outsiders; other one-off events include talks with Ina Garten and a special performance by Idina Menzel with the Pacific Symphony. Next door is the South Coast Repertory, which performs local theater favorites. This year the University of California, Irvine acquired the Orange County Museum of Art to jointly become the UC Irvine Langson Orange County Museum of Art (also located in the arts district). The building was designed by Pritzker Prize-winning architect Thom Mayne, with a glass atrium is flanked on either side by wavy, terra cotta paneling. Take a seat on the grand outdoor public stair, inspired by the Metropolitan Museum of Art steps in New York City and the Spanish Steps in Rome, all while enjoying a snack or some reading. Go inside for art from Southern California and the Pacific Rim, along with special exhibits. Currently on view through the fall is “Staging California in Early Hollywood” and “Raymond Saunders: Flowers from a Black Garden.” To get some fresh air on (almost always) a temperate day, follow the Costa Mesa Art Walk, where a free audio guide can take you beyond your own interpretations of the art. Highlights include Isamu Noguchi’s “California Scenario,” a microcosm of the state, and Joan Miró’s “Oiseau,” a surrealist cast bronze statue. Cross over Bristol Street to South Coast Plaza, one of the largest shopping malls in the country with over 230 stores. Even for window shopping, it can be a destination in and of itself, housing high end stores like Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and more, along with 30 restaurants. It’s a sight to see, especially its Bridge of Gardens, which connects South Coast Plaza’s two sides. But big brand stores aren’t for everyone: At The Lab Anti-Mall, which defines itself as a “destination full of small businesses, art, and funkiness,” there are more local shops, such as Creme Tangerine, which sells records on “a mission to keep vinyl alive,” and Pen Pals, which offers stationary and cute gifts. The Camp, only a short walk away, is an outdoor mall of sorts with environmentalism on the mind, also supporting local businesses. Take part in their 12 Steps to Return to Humanity program, an ongoing event series focused on taking time away from technology and being involved in community. Examples of events include yoga, songwriting, live music, and shop pop ups. SoCo & The OC Mix is another outdoor shopping destination that hosts the SoCo Farmers Market every Saturday featuring only certified California grown agricultural products. Where to eat (and drink) in Costa Mesa Breakfast should be a bagel, and will involve choosing between father and son: Shirley’s, an Orange County classic serving up soft, chewy bagels since 1986, has been co-owned by Carlos Perez since 1998. His son, and namesake, spent his teen years in the Shirley’s kitchen and then in 2022, started his own bagel joint just a few minutes away called Boil and Bake. Here, they use a variety of local purveyors to make everything in house (down to the butter) that they use to top and spread on their delicious 72-hour fermented sourdough bagels. Get there too late on a weekend and there will likely be a line out the door, but they are planning an expansion soon. To embrace a California breakfast tradition, Hola Adios is there to provide breakfast tacos, burritos, and biscuits, along with some of the best coffee in the county. For a unique bakery experience, head to Eller Bakery, where they have both an in house flour mill and coffee roastery. It will be very difficult to see, and not order, their cinnamon roll. As with much of Orange County, food and beer culture intertwine in Costa Mesa. Though some breweries, like Green Cheek Beer Co. make their own (indulge in the cheeky style tots and a smash burger), others, like Salty Bear and Synth Beer Co, have a delicious rotating food truck schedule or allow you to bring your own takeout while enjoying a pint. In the laid back O.C. style, these breweries have serene outdoor patios to relax and spend the afternoon or evening chatting with friends. For fine dining before a show, three Costa Mesa restaurants appear in the Michelin guide. Hana re, located in the Lab, is an inventive and intimate (there are only 10 seats at the counter) sushi bar where patrons watch Chef Atsushi Yokoyama prepare their meal with seasonal fish. There’s no menu, so expect only a chef omakase course, which means your meal will be picked for you. Knife Pleat, a contemporary French restaurant, is run by husband and wife duo Tony Esnault and Yassmin Sarmadi and offers a Californian take on French cuisine. Last, but not least, is Vaca, which offers a diverse range of Spanish cuisine, includes an extensive tapas menu and multiple paella options. You’re going to want to show up very hungry. Mexican food is also a must—try Baja Fish Tacos or Birrieria Guadalajara for the crispy or consommè-soaked variety of Cali-Mex tacos. If variety is of interest, or if you desire to acquire ingredients to do some cooking of your own, Mercado González is the place to be, featuring 20 stalls ranging from tortillerias to tamelerias and carnicerías. Located in The Camp, and recently expanded to Los Angeles, Folks Pizzeria serves up pizza with a thick bubbly crust and amazing sides, such as their little gem caesar and beef tallow fries. (Pro tip: it gets crowded, so make a reservation or get it to go to enjoy at one of the breweries listed above that are all within walking distance.) Where to stay in Costa Mesa For those preferring big brand shopping, arts scene, and high end restaurants, the Avenue of the Arts Costa Mesa, a Tribute Portfolio Hotel, is the place to be. It is in the Theatre & Arts District and a short walk to South Costa Plaza. When it's time for a break, private balconies attached to the rooms are the perfect place to unwind. The terrace rooms also offer just that, a small patio with a cozy table to spend an afternoon relaxing before a night out. There is also a pool with a cabana. For a more laid-back O.C. vibe, there are quaint Airbnb’s walking distance to more mom and pop restaurants. Take this quintessential midcentury renovated house with a spacious yard and a grill perfect for al fresco dining. Just minutes from the ocean, even on the hottest of days, most evenings in Costa Mesa are temperate (or even chilly at certain times of year), perfect for sitting outside with a light sweatshirt or blanket. Don’t feel like battling the crowds at the beach? That’s okay, hop in the pool in your own backyard. If you’re in need of less space because you plan to be out all day and night, this cute guesthouse, also with a quaint garden and a fire pit, also works as a great jumping off point for everything Costa Mesa has to offer.